(I am not a dermatologist or a doctor. This guide is purely based on years of experience, research and trial and error. Please keep that in mind.)
Skin Type: Normal. Skin Concerns: Hyperpigmentation, Large Pores.
I have suffered with acne since my early teens and into most of my adult life. So, after getting the go ahead with Accutane I consider myself pretty fortunate to finally be acne free, for the most part. However, no amount of medication was going to deal with the aftermath of so many years of constant and consistent damage to my skin. Not only had I been left with heavy PIH (Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) across my cheeks and jawline but, my acne had seen fit to bless me with some ice-pick scars and rough texture in what had been the worst affected areas of my skin. Even though I had always worked on reducing the damage whilst the break outs were happening, it’s only now I can actually see and reap the full benefits of everything involved in my skincare journey. I can proudly say, I have gotten my skin to a place where I’m confident enough to skip the foundation when going outside and I want to share that journey with all of you, in a form of guide that will hopefully help you feel a good place with your skin aswell.
I want to preface this article by saying there is no easy fix for dealing with the damage left over by acne. For some, fading scars can take a few months, for others years and, for some of us, a handful of marks will be with us forever. Something I have come to realise in my battle with acne and what I want others to realise to, is that we don’t need to have a perfect, blemish free skin in order to feel confident, beautiful or sexy. We all need to practice unconditional acceptance of ourselves. With or without acne, with or without scarring, with or without any imperfections we are gorgeous. I fully understand how demoralising, heart breaking or even depressing it can be to see ourselves when our skin is in a bad place, but please never EVER think lower of yourself, think you are less amazing or wonderful purely because you don’t have Instagram perfect skin.
On the other hand, I am also not going to sit here and say that we should just accept things about ourselves that we don’t like, if we have the means to and want to do something about it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting to fade acne scars if that is something YOU want. The same way there is nothing wrong about wanting to change something about your appearance if YOU desire it. How we feel in our own bodies, in our skin, is what is most important as we are the ones living in it. So, I whole heartedly encourage you to love yourself as you are, but I also encourage you, if you are able, to go about doing things that will make you feel confident and happy in your own skin. We live one life, live it!
With that being side, let me finally jump to the part I’m sure you all came here to read. This guide sets out to give you all my advice, tips, tricks and product recommendations that helped me in my journey to prevent, reduce and fade mild to severe hyperpigmentation and acne scarring. I hope that it will help you too.
A Little Lifestyle
I can’t start this guide off without pointing out some lifestyle changes will probably have to be made. I’m sure a number of you are already doing these things or, have set things in motion for change but, for you that haven’t, you will want to think about incorporating these first, before you dive head deep into the process.
Prevention
The first step in dealing with acne scarring is prevention and this, can unfortunately be the hardest step of all. I personally know that no matter what I tried regarding my skin, whether it was diet, skincare, exercise and so forth, my acne would keep coming back, sometimes worse, sometimes better. I’m not saying that everyone will need medication for their acne as I did but, I do encourage seeking out a dermatologist by way of your GP if you are having difficulty. However, there are other things you can do to prevent or atleast reduce the amount of acne you are getting and, this is where a good percentage of your trial and error will be.
One of the main causes of breakouts is excess sebum and clogged pores. This is why acne tends to strike people with oily skin worse than those with normal or dry. Yet, oily skin or not, congested pores will strike absolutely everyone the same and wreak havoc with your skin. You will need to make a concerted effort to keep your pores clear and your skin clean if you are trying to combat breakouts. Some easy ways to help manage this is are to wash your pillowcases regularly, minimise makeup or even drop it all together for a bit. Make sure you are cleansing and exfoliating daily (how much you exfoliate is purely dependant on your skin, do what works best for you,) and avoid touching your face with dirty hands.
Another cause for a lot of people can be their diets. My housemate has really good skin but, whenever he ate Nutella or drank fizzy drinks for a few days in a row, his skin would break out horribly. So, take a look at your diet. Anything you regularly consume that could be linked to a break out? Drop it for a week or two and see what happens.
Hormones, medication and even stress are all common reasons for consistent acne and breakouts. Though some of these things can’t be helped, identifying the problem is the first step to finding a solution.
Also, under the note of prevention, do not pick your acne. Under any circumstances! Doing so almost guarantees you will be left with a scar. Something I found helped me from picking was using acne patches. They are clear, small patches that not only help your acne but, they will stop you being able to pick at it directly and subsequently cause more damage.
Commitment
Your commitment to your skin is such an important step going forward. Remember, this is for you and, like anything else in life you are going to have to work bloody hard for it. Nothing great comes without dedication. So, never give up. There will be times where you wake up to another terrible break out and it makes you feel miserable. You’ll ponder skipping your routines because it doesn’t feel like it’s working. You’ll want to do things that you know will further irritate your break out, because what does it matter anyway. Never take several steps back when you have been going forward. Push through those bad thoughts, those awful days. Hiccups are unavoidable but, the battle isn’t over yet. Keep pushing!
Investment
Like with most things, making changes to your life can be a costly endeavour. However, instead of seeing this as an investment of money, see it as an investment in yourself. Time, money and dedication is something we all give in aspects of our lives, so why should our skin be any different?
However, try not to go overboard. I can tell you that at this point, I’m not even sure how much money I’ve put into my skin. In the past, I’ve gotten so caught up in purchasing new products without exercising patience, that I ended up spending far more than I needed to. So, my advice is to take it slow. Everything needs a good trial period. Treating and repairing your skin will take time no matter how much money you throw at it, so there is no need to rush. Make one or two purchases, test those out for a month or more, then if you feel you need to try something else, make another one or two.
Another thing I want to touch on is affordable vs expensive skincare. I feel as though it is commonly conveyed that the more expensive a product is, the more likely it is to work. Yet, that is just not true. I implore you to remember that expensive does not always mean better. You absolutely do not need to spend £155 on a serum or, £70 on a cleanser to achieve the skin you want. Most products, expensive or not, will work for one person or another. Is it true that with cheaper products it may take you longer to see results, depending on the ingredients and concentration? Sure, but that doesn’t mean you won’t see them.
Now, am I saying that expensive products are bad? Absolutely not. There are some truly phenomenal products on the market that I could recommend dropping a good amount of money on and, if you can afford them then don’t let anyone stop you. However, for those that can’t, I want to make it clear that you can fade your blemishes and hyperpigmentation with affordable products and patience, so please don’t worry if you don’t have a lot to spend.
Inside Matters Too
Your health is an important factor in good skin. What you are putting into your body, will show on the outside in one form or another and, quite often this can end up being our skin.
Vitamins & Supplements
Many of us already take vitamins and supplements for our overall health but, did you know some have been proven to help reduce the risk of scarring aswell as heal existing scars? The best vitamins and minerals to help fade hyperpigmentation and blemishes are vitamins A - D, Zinc and Selenium.
Though there are a pleather of vitamins and supplements on the market, I will only be naming the ones I personally use. I highly encourage that you do your own research before purchasing and trying any new products, as the miss-use or overuse of vitamins and supplements can be detrimental instead of helpful.
First up is Cod Liver Oil, which is high in both vitamin A and D. The omega 3 fatty acids in Cod Liver Oil can reduce inflammation, whilst the vitamins work as powerful antioxidants. It can be helpful for both active acne and the scarring left behind.
Another is Holland & Barrett’s Radiance Multivitamins & Minerals supplements. These have a little bit of everything including; vitamins A, C, D, E, B12, biotin, magnesium & zinc. This selection is touted to help not only your immune system and heart but, also your skin aswell, working to provide you with glowing, healthy skin from the inside.
The last one I currently take is Nature’s Bounty Hair, Skin & Nails gummies. This is a generic ‘all in one’ formulation to provide nutrients specifically for your skin and hair. These have Vitamin C and E, aswell as Biotin. I take these mostly for hair growth but, it is said biotin can promote healthy skin, which is a lovely bonus.
Now, I do want to add another one to this list, which is the Halo Beauty Kiwi Skin Booster. Though I personally no longer use it, I saw a significant improvement in my overall complexion by the end of the three months I was taking these. They have a full, extensive list on their website of its ingredients but, the purpose of these particular supplements is the overall health and look of your skin. Fine lines, collagen production, radiant complexion and the list goes on. The only reason I stopped using them is because they are honestly just too expensive. By themselves their price isn’t particularly bad but, tack on the good old custom charges and shipping for me here in the UK, it’s just not a viable option at the moment. Shame as that is, I do honestly recommend them if you are living in or close to the US.
Water
My last little tip when it comes to lifestyle, is drinking water. I cannot stress enough how important this is. Now I know you’ve all heard this before and, at this point ‘stay hydrated,’ is more likely to make you cringe then to have you grabbing a bottle of water. However, my love hate relationship with Redbull has seen me skipping water frequently in the past. A few days of that and it has a HUGE effect on my skin. When our skin becomes dehydrated, it can make scarring seem more pronounced, because our complexion will become dull and look uneven. No matter how rigorous you are with your skincare, how many vitamins you take or how healthy you eat, dehydration can send your skin back to square one and we want to avoid that at all costs. I know water is boring, so try to mix it up. Flavoured water, warm water, whatever tickles your fancy. Just keep drinking that water and your skin will reap the benefits.
The Elements Of Skincare
Let’s dive into skincare. I already mentioned that consistency is key and that goes for our skincare routines aswell. Morning and night, you want to be doing your skincare, no matter what. However, there are three key elements that I want to talk about, as they are an integral part in the process of fading hyperpigmentation and acne scarring, so let’s get into it.
Hydration
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate! No matter what skin type you have, if you are trying to ease breakouts, fade scarring and have glowing skin, you need to make sure your skincare includes hydrating products.
There are many ways to do this but, what I found works incredibly well and helps to fade my hyperpigmentation overnight, is using a sleeping mask and face oil. Every. Single. Night. Hydrated skin improves elasticity, which reduces the appearance of dark spots, wrinkles and aging. Additionally, keeping your skin hydrated during a breakout will reduce the severity of the damage, creating scars that are much easier to fade in the future. There are so many things that hydrated skin can help with, all incredibly beneficial for now and in the long run. If there is anything you take away from this guide, it should be to make sure that throughout the day and night, your skin is remaining hydrated.
Balance
Whilst this guide is about fading hyperpigmentation and scarring, it’s important to remember that you need balance. Though your main concern is most likely scarring, you want to make sure the rest of your face is being adequately taken care of aswell. Keeping those pores clear, lessening rough or bumpy texture, removing any build-up of dead skin cells and hydrating your skin are all factors in the overall appearance of your skin. So, whilst you are working on those scars, don’t forget the rest of your face needs love too. You want to create balance across your whole face and, come out of this on the other side with skin that is smooth, even in texture and tone and scar free.
Exfoliation (Chemical/Physical)
Exfoliation is important no matter what but, this is definitely an integral step when it comes to reducing scarring. As most of you probably already know, exfoliation removes dead skin cells clogging the skin, revealing new cells below. This allows your products to penetrate deeper into the skin, aswell as facilitating a brightened complexion and fading unwanted blemishes, whilst reducing texture and the appearance of pores.
I absolutely swear by daily exfoliation in my routine, without it I am plagued by black heads across my t-zone, longer lasting hyperpigmentation and textured skin. However, over exfoliation can cause more harm than good, so take care when exfoliating and find out what works best for you. Most people prefer chemical exfoliation, as it is gentler on the skin and penetrates deeper, therefore making it a viable option for everyday use. However, if you have acne scarring, I recommend using a gentle physical exfoliant atleast once a week to help purge your skin of any build up and accelerate the turn over process.
What’s In The Bottle
Before we talk products, let’s talk ingredients. For me, what is in a product is far more important than the product itself and, here’s why. Our skin, is not created equally. Ingredients will not give the same results from person to person, no matter how preloved or highly rated they are.
A good example of this in my case, is Vitamin C. You’d be hard pressed to find someone who didn’t swear by Vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, brightening and hydration. Yet in my case, after trying copious amounts of products that seemed to do nothing or very little for my skin, I realised that Vitamin C just wasn’t very effective on me.
However, Vitamin C did help improve my complexion, when I started pairing it with Niacinamide and Liquorice root. For me, those two combos are absolute magic. This is why it’s key to never just laser focus in on one or two ingredients or products. Results can vary for so many reasons, so it’s good to know your broad spectrum of options.
So below I have compiled a list of ingredients that either separately or together, worked to reduce and improve my scarring, texture and brighten my complexion. There will be other ingredients not mentioned here and, that is either because I personally haven’t tried them, so I don’t feel confident enough to recommend them or, they simply didn’t work for me. As I mentioned before, everyone’s skin is different, so what didn’t for me may work brilliantly for you and, vice versa. I will also list product examples under each ingredient, so you have an idea of what to look for or what is on offer. Products I have personally used will have an asterisk besides their name.
Ingredients:
Rice: Rice has been instrumental in my skincare journey and, become an ingredient I actively look for when purchasing new products. Rice extract is already an incredibly popular ingredient in Asian skincare and for good reason. It’s known to hydrate, firm and balance uneven skin tone, aswell as brighten and most importantly, fade dark spots. I recall the first time I ever used a rice infused sheet mask; I was stunned at the immediate difference. My skin looked brighter than it had been in months and felt so soft to touch. After a few months of regular rice sheet mask use, the darkest of my hyperpigmentation had faded considerably. The great thing about rice is, because it’s a natural ingredient, it’s good for most if not all skin types.
Lemon: I was a little late to the lemon train and I regret I didn’t jump on it sooner. However, I recommend lemon with a word of caution. Lemons are a great source of Vitamin C and Citric acid, the acid being an AHA that exfoliates your skin, they are also highly acidic and can easily cause irritation. However, if used correctly, lemon can be incredible on the skin. Due to its properties, it can help correct uneven skin tone which aids in fading dark spots and, as I mentioned earlier, it works as an exfoliant too. I’ve only ever used one lemon product at a time and usually in exfoliation, to be on the safe side. Even so, when I started using lemon exfoliants/masks, my acne scarring showed significant improvement in just a few months. Make sure to lather on the sunscreen if you do step out after using lemon in your skincare.
Turmeric: This gem has been used in India for centuries for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It’s list of uses is pretty long but among that is lightening pigmentation, brightening dark circles and leaving your skin with a healthy glow. I’ve actually been using a turmeric scrub on my lips and neck for some time now, aswell as turmeric bar soaps for the scarring on my body (yes, all of these will work for body scarring too) and, gradually they have shown improvement.
Turmeric can be a tricky ingredient due to its tendency to stain with over use. However, due to its popularity these days, you can find it in more and more products, aswell as try out some DIY masks and creams for yourself, if you want to get creative.
Honey: I adore using honey in my skincare, it just feels so luxurious on the skin and keeps it intensely nourished. It helps that honey is a natural antibacterial ingredient and, has demonstrated its uses in not only calming active breakouts but, clearing up the blemishes left behind. Honey is moisturising; unlike many acids you might use to combat acne and blemishes and, since hydration is a massive key in clearing up your skin, it’s always great to have ingredients that work for you in that regard, rather than against you. Honey is another ingredient that is typically safe for all skin types.
Liquorice Root: This natural ingredient wormed its way into my skincare and I have never looked back. It has a lot of good things to offer: dealing with sun damage and dark spots, easing inflammation, tightening the skin and in some cases, it’s also shown to help treat acne. When I began applying a serum containing liquorice root directly to my hyperpigmentation, it took only a month to see that those areas had already began to lighten. I actually began mixing my Vitamin C and liquorice root serums together and as a combo, they did not disappoint. As far as progress with my skin, I think this combo has made the biggest difference, as even the darkest of my hyperpigmentation as lightened so much, the difference is incredible.
Niacinamide: I have used a lot and I mean A LOT of niacinamide products over the course of my skincare journey. One of the great things about niacinamide is that it works well with most ingredients, acting as a direct boost or benefit to the other products in your routine. Niacinamide, which is also known as Vitamin B3, is a fix it all vitamin. Over the years I’ve used it, it has done an astounding job at making my pores look smaller, improved my overall skin texture and aided in fading my hyperpigmentation.
Sometimes, depending on your skin or what kind of acne you have, just fading your hyperpigmentation won’t leave you with the skin you’re looking for. I touched on this earlier but, you want make sure you are working on your whole face, not just on your scarring. Niacinamide will really aid you in that. Applied every day it will gradually work to improve the entire look of your skin, which ultimately includes your scarring aswell.
Kojic Acid: I feel like this acid has skated under the radar for some, yet it definitely deserves a place in your skincare routines, especially when it comes to scarring. The reason Kojic acid is so good, is because it inhibits pigment production and, the over production of melanin is what usually causes hyperpigmentation. Due to this, it has proved itself excellent at fading hyperpigmentation and discoloration, aswell as keeping it at bay. I use this particular acid only on my cheeks and jawline, as that is where most of the damage from my acne has been and, I have seen a significant improvement over the course of the six months I’ve been using it. I highly recommend looking into this acid and seeing if you can fit it into your routine.
Vitamin C/Ascorbic Acid: I mentioned this earlier but Vitamin C is a weird one for me. Using it alone, my skin never really showed any improvement. In my research, I did come across others who also expressed Vitamin C didn’t really improve their skin but, it does seem to be a pretty unpopular opinion. Nevertheless, after much trial and error, I did find products containing Vitamin C that worked for me, so I am putting it here. Vitamin C’s benefits include brightening the skin, lightening dark spots and hyperpigmentation and, offers protection against pollution and sun damage. Ascorbic acid is probably the most potent and used form of Vitamin C and, in higher concentrations is a go to for problematic skin. I found Ascorbic acid worked the best for me but, there are many forms of Vitamin C you can try.
Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It’s known for exfoliating the skin by penetrating the pores. As we know, exfoliation reveals new skin cells underneath, which works to improve and reduce the look of scarring, texture and uneven complexion, it’s definitely a good choice. Salicylic acid is probably the most common acid across my skin care and I have a feeling that goes for many others aswell. Whether it’s in my cleanser, toner, serum etc, I always make sure that it is in something I am using both day and night. Though there are a pleather of acids available to try, I think this one really worked to supercharge my routine and, point me in the direction when it came to clearing up my skin. Though this particular acid isn’t very harsh, some people can find it irritating or drying, so if you aren’t already using it, I suggest introducing it slowly at lower concentrations at first.
My Routine
What I use in my routines has changed dramatically over the course of the last few years and, I am still buying new things and testing them out all the time. However, whilst I am still learning and improving, there are some products I swear by that I have repurchased continuously throughout this journey. From cleansers to masks, these are the products that have become my holy grails for hyperpigmentation, large pores and a brighter complexion.
Cleansers:
Exfoliators:
Toners:
Serums:
Moisturisers:
Masks:
Oils:
Miscellaneous:
I know there are many other elements I could mention or ingredients I can add, but I feel like this guide is more of a basic layout, to get you started on your journey or help you if you are stuck. I laid out what has worked for me in the hopes that anyone struggling may find it useful. Now, I am by no means hyperpigmentation free. It’s something I am still working on and probably will be for a little while yet but, what I am is confident. Confident enough in my skin to go out without makeup, to embrace the fact that my skin isn’t perfect but it’s still beautiful. I hope soon, you too will feel the same.
Thanks for reading, please check out my other articles and share this guide if you think it’s helpful!
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